There is no pin here. A magnetic clasp grips the fabric between two halves, so nothing goes through the weave. The motif is a fish stripped back to its bones: head and tail paved with rhinestones, with a run of vertebrae linking the two.

Wearing a fish brooch on a lapel, a scarf or a knit

The decorative half rides on the outside; the magnetic counterpart slides in behind the fabric. On a jacket lapel the fish sits well horizontally, head turned inwards, roughly a hand's width below the shoulder seam. On a fine knit it holds without leaving a mark. Above a certain thickness the two halves stop meeting properly, so try a heavy coat before you go out: if the hold gives at the first movement, the cloth is too thick.

A skeleton, not a whole fish

Look closely and the shape resolves into three parts. A triangular head with an open mouth, then a run of vertebrae down the middle, then a notched tail. Rhinestones cover both ends, leaving only a thin line of metal to draw the outline. A single dark eye sits high on the head. From across a room it reads as a fish; up close it is nearer to a drawing of one.

Silver or gold: our fish brooches compared

How the two finishes differ, and what they share
Silver finishClear stones and a pale spine, a cool look that lifts navy and charcoal.
Gold finishWarm outline, black stones, dark grey centre, stronger contrast on cream or camel.
Both finishesThe same 7.5 cm span, the same dark eye, the same magnetic fastening.

Who the fish brooch suits, and when to give one

Anyone born under the sign of Pisces, between 19 February and 20 March, has a fair claim on it. The motif also turns up more often once the weather warms, on linen jackets and summer scarves. And it makes an easy small gift, with no size to get wrong. If the animal theme appeals, the turtle brooches use the same pin-free fastening, while the rest of the animal line-up runs from cats to owls.